St Cuthbert’s Way - Leg III: Kirk Yetholm to Hethpool

Setting off in two cars from our base at the Tankerville Arms in Wooler we deposit one at the small hamlet of Westnewton (having lost confidence that the single track road to Hethpool would yield a parking space) and then pile into the second for the short but winding drive to Kirk Yetholm. Here we park across the road from the Border Hotel, noting its attractions for later.

From Kirk Yetholm the route is unmistakable. From this end point of the Pennine Way we follow the shared path south heading along a winding road that goes steeply up before declining to the Halter Burn. Here we cross the burn and follow the signed and well-trod path up Green Humbleton, curling round the side of the hill rather than straight up, which makes the gradient more manageable.

At a fork we leave the Pennine Way and strike off left, still climbing, to a gate that marks the Scotland / England border. We speculate on how passport control may be needed some years down the line. Once through the gate there is a final climb, passing below Eccles Cairn on our left before the path descends steadily down to reach a small plantation.

Entering the dark and gloomy mini-forest the way is through the left hand edge, way-marked by orange tape blazes on the tree trunks. A stile brings us out into a grassy field and the way is straight ahead, eventually via a stony track until an isolated house is reached at Elsdonburn.

From here a narrow tarmac road leads down the quiet valley bottom of the Elsdon Burn; easy walking with the stream to the right, pine trees to the left and good views up ahead. In a mile or so a right turn into Hethpool is reached, but our way is straight on down the single track road we abandoned earlier. After just twenty minutes walking we stumble over the car parked at Westnewton.

Repeating the short drive to Kirk Yetholm gets us back outside, then inside, the Border Hotel where alcoholic, soft or hot brewed drinks (according to taste and driving responsibility) and snacks are consumed for an hour or so before returning to Wooler.

More substantial fare (and universally consumed alcoholic drink) is partaken back at the Tankerville Arms as we toast our day’s walk and prepare for that of tomorrow.