Parking
again near the Tees Barrage at Stockton, the Teesdale Way Path is re-joined over
the barrage on the North Bank. Past the impressive white water course, and
along the tow path toward Middlesbrough, this first mile or so is between the
river on the right and Portrack Marsh on the left, with the barrage behind and
the A19 flyover ahead.
Once
under the flyover the somewhat older Newport Bridge approaches. It’s currently
closed to traffic being repainted, which is a slight worry as it provides the
Tees crossing for the Teesdale Way. The path goes under the bridge and loops up
to the road, at which point it is clear that it remains passable for cyclists
and pedestrians. Once over the river some steps lead down to the tow path which
then goes under the bridge and downstream, now on the south bank.
Underfoot
the tarmac and concrete gives way to a wide shale path with grassy verges. On
this side of the river are the remains of industry, largely flattened; across
the water is the back end of Billingham with the remnants of chemical plants
hanging on. The old wharves can be seen, rotting gently away, although one ship
is moored over there so something is still moving in or out.
After
a couple of miles, the path forks at a ‘viewpoint’, marked by an iron bench. My
old map says turn inland here, but the continuing towpath indicates the
possibility of a newer riverbank route. It turns out to be no more than a spur
that stops dead after a couple of hundred yards, so the inland fork remains the
only option and some road walking is in prospect.
However
before the path hits the road it goes through the weirdly impressive Teesaurus
Park where large steel plate dinosaurs peer out of, or over, the trees, and
about four miles into the walk it’s a good place to sit for fifteen minutes and
have a snack.
From
the park the route turns left along Riverside Park Road, through the newish
business park, now separated from the river by some industrial units showing
welcome signs of industry. Keeping left along first Depot Road, then Vulcan
Street, leads eventually to the foot of the iconic Transporter Bridge.
The
route continues straight on, past Middlesbrough College on the right, heading
for the unmissable double zeros of Tremenos and the Riverside Stadium, home of
the Boro. Just past Tremenos are seats by the Middlesbrough Dock from where the
contrasts of the new and the old architecture can be pondered, for me over
lunch.
At
just under six miles, and only one o’clock in the afternoon, the option of
Middlesbrough Station is rejected and the slightly risky alternative is adopted
of finding a station up the line where trains may or may not stop.
A
footbridge crosses the inlet to the dock and the way is then via The Halyard
and The Leeway round the front of the stadium (or just across the car park),
until the road straightens, separated from the railway on the right by tree and
bushes.
Soon
a level crossing appears to the right, and once over it a path leads off to the
left, now adjacent to the railway line. The railway is a constant companion and
the path is the first of the day to feature earth and grass, resembling a real
countryside way. The surroundings don’t match though, with the A66 away to the
right; the path is a narrow fenced in corridor, often punctuated with scrap,
litter and overflowing detritus of adjacent businesses.
A
couple of road bridges intervene which are either ducked under or climbed over,
and one stretch features a stretch of brambles with blackberries ripe for
harvest.
A
couple of miles after leaving Middlesbrough Dock the path emerges at South Bank
station, a welcome sight made even more welcome by the train timetable that
confirms a regular service is in operation. In fact a wait of just three
minutes is required before a train rolls up and £2 sees me back at Thornaby
station in no time at all.
The
short walk back to the Tees Barrage adds a bit to the eight mile stretch that
was more interesting than exhilarating, illustrating as it does the Tees’
historic importance in the development of Middlesbrough.
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