With three challenges completed – Cleveland Way (2002-2005), Hadrian’s Wall Path (2012-13), and Lower Teesdale Way (2013-14) - the Ancient Roam turns its attention to St Cuthbert’s Way

This will be attempted, possibly haphazardly, in the company of the more mobile remnants of the Lloyd George House class of ’75. Forty years on from sharing student accommodation of that name, six retired but game gentlemen aim to periodically reconvene and meander across the Scottish Borders and the Cheviot with the faint hope of reaching the Northumberland Coast in the next year or two.



Tuesday, 8 April 2014

Lower Teesdale Way - Leg VI: Neasham to Middleton One Row (circular) – Thursday 13 March 2014

Just down Sockburn Lane from Neasham is Liberty Lodge from where the Teesdale Way once more offers a route on either bank from to Low Dinsdale. I decide to cover both by starting at Middleton One Row, heading to Low Dinsdale, then completing the loop past Liberty Lodge, through High Sockburn, over the river and back via Over Dinsdale . The weather is perfect for walking; sunny, blue skies, and air that is cool, still, and insect free.

Parking opposite The Devonport Hotel in Middleton One Row I head diagonally down the green to locate the signed path into the woods, at this point heading upstream on the left bank. After the interruption of Dinsdale Park’s front patio, the woodland way continues with squirrels aplenty and the river wide and swift to the left. All that detracts from the scene are the plastic bags and other flood debris left high and dry in the tree branches now fifteen feet or more above the current water level.

After swinging left over an incongruously red-brick bridge over a culvert, I rise up through a well churned up section, evidently the scene of a recent cross country or re-enactment of the Battle of the Somme. Just on from there I do a double take as between me and the river I see, not fifty feet away, a small deer stood stock still. I stand likewise and for a few seconds it is like something from a Robert Frost poem (c.f. Two Look at Two), then as I go for my camera the creature bounds off gracefully through the trees and away.

The path rises up to be joined by another from the right. Intuitively, left is the way forward but the sign indicates right, until closer inspection reveals some mischievous tampering (the Teesdale Way dipper bird lying on his back being a bit of a giveaway). The left route is soon confirmed by a way-marked stile that leads out of the woods into fields, across which the path heads for the tower of Low Dinsdale Church.

Arriving at Low Dinsdale I spend time to admire the old church with Norman tower and lych-gate before heading right down the lane. Passing a field of exotic livestock at Manor House Farm, I miss a left turn while trying to decide if they were llamas or alpacas, but I soon realise and retrace my steps to enter a well tarmacked single track road heading across the fields as straight as a die.

This anomalous feature is soon explained as I pass two or three exclusive properties – Spa Wells, Fish Locks and The Ashes – and at the last the road ends and the way is signed right over a stile and along a field edge adjacent to Black Wood. At a stile at the end of the wood a path crosses and the left option soon leads out onto Sockburn Lane (just about a mile from Neasham, reached in the previous leg).

Turning left down the lane, Liberty Lodge is soon reached (a pretty gabled cottage such that the Railway Children would live at) and then ten minutes further down the lane, High Sockburn, where a path left leads down towards the river and Girsby Bridge.

The bridge is a functional metal structure, but just across it I find a flat bit of rampart on which to sit and eat lunch. It’s the end of the week so it is an eclectic selection: pork pie, crisps, a jam scone, and a Titan bar, with the apple held back for emergencies. The spot is peaceful and pleasant but I have gone against one of my walking maxims – don’t stop for a break at the bottom of a hill – so it is a bit of a struggle to get going again up the steepish path to and around the back of Church House Farm. A few steps along their access lane a gap in the hedge on the left leads across a few fields via an ill-defined path; but the heading is due north, which means following my shadow at this time of day, and just heading for the  gaps and gates visible in the hedges.

Approaching White House the path goes to the right of the buildings (and a thankfully caged dog) and carries on along a field edge. At the corner of this field an inviting gap appears, but it must be ignored and the field boundary followed as it curves right to the way-marked gate. Into the next field the field edge is followed until a wood is approached, then a sign directs the way diagonally right up the slope, towards Hill House.
The field is exited by a gate and again the path resumes its northward track across fields and into the small Crosshill Woods, where the path turns sticky for a while, before reverting to a pleasant field path down into Over Dinsdale. Emerging via a smallholding (picking my way through free range hens, cocks, goats and a solitary sheep) into a lane, and after a turn or two I see ahead Middleton One Row, far away across the unseen river, with my car patiently awaiting my return.


Turning left, the road leads down over the Tees back to the church at Low Dinsdale, from where it is a case of retracing my earlier steps through Dinsdale Woods to Middleton One Row. No deer in sight this time, just a couple of bunnies on the slope up to the village, where the Devonport Hotel is on hand to provide a pint of bitter shandy to round off an excellent nine mile walk taking just over four hours.

No comments:

Post a Comment