With three challenges completed – Cleveland Way (2002-2005), Hadrian’s Wall Path (2012-13), and Lower Teesdale Way (2013-14) - the Ancient Roam turns its attention to St Cuthbert’s Way

This will be attempted, possibly haphazardly, in the company of the more mobile remnants of the Lloyd George House class of ’75. Forty years on from sharing student accommodation of that name, six retired but game gentlemen aim to periodically reconvene and meander across the Scottish Borders and the Cheviot with the faint hope of reaching the Northumberland Coast in the next year or two.



Monday, 20 May 2013

Leg VII – Vindobala to Wall – Thursday 25 April 2013


It is damp with light rain as we board the 685 bus back to Holeyn Hall crossroads; unfortunately the driver is unused to anyone disembarking there, in the middle of nowhere, and overshoots the stop by about 100 yards before we point out his error and he pulls over. Retracing our steps from yesterday we soon reach High Seat and by 10.15 are back on the Path.

Back on the Path and back alongside the Military Road which will be our constant companion for today and most of tomorrow. First we are on the verge, then in fields adjacent to but below the road level, before emerging into more open field paths.

Two hours trudging up and over Harlow Hill, brings us to the Robin Hood at East Wallhouses where refreshing drinks of tea and beer are purchased and consumed in the stone floored and wood panelled bar.

The walk is resumed with the path shifting from fields on one side to those on the other of the never ending road; either side the stiles and gates intervene regularly. This section should be labelled the miles of stiles – but at least we are carrying lighter packs today as we are able to leave most of our belongings at Corbridge, to where we return tonight. The weather is a stubbornly persistent rain that varies from spitty-spotty to heavy drizzle and it is at its heaviest as we complete the two hour march to the Portgate. This is where the main Roman road north (Dere Street) passed through Hadrian’s Wall en route from Corbridge to Scotland.

More importantly it is the site of The Errington Arms and at 2 o’clock after 8½ miles it is time for lunch. Two appropriately (but coincidentally) named Ceasar salad sandwiches and two pints of beer do the job, and when we emerge 45 minutes later it is blinkingly into relative brightness; dry and with a freshening breeze.

Rising through field paths and over vertiginous stiles, good views to the north and east emerge. A pine plantation provides novelty value to the path for a while before we go back over the road and into fields of lambs and cows. Past Halton Shields the terrain flattens out and the sun begins to peep through. By Planetrees the landscape falls away to the west and, bathed in sunshine, provides the best aspect of the day.

To top it all there is a small section of wall showing how, in this section, the 2 metre wall was built on 3 metre foundations (presumed to be a cost saving measure). After the steep descent the line of the wall heads for Chollorford but helpfully for us the Path diverts south to follow the minor road towards Wall.

As the Path turns back towards Chollorford we continue into the village of Wall and bravely penetrate the eerie exterior of the Hadrian Hotel. Having completed our thirteen miles slightly ahead of schedule we have time for a cup of tea and a cake before crossing the road to the bus stop.

While waiting for the AD122 ‘Hadrian’s Wall Bus’ we are picked up instead by a random Arriva bus, whose driver offers us a lift into Hexham. We accept and Pete shows his appreciation by wetting the floor of his bus; thankfully it’s just water from a leaking bottle in his bag. Dropped off at Hexham station we improvise a train journey (one stop) to Corbridge only to discover the station is a good half mile outside the town. No matter, it’s a lovely evening by now so a short stroll across the picturesque bridge over the river and into town gets us to The Wheatsheaf before 7pm.

Tonight’s evening meals are excellent (beef chilli and smoked haddock – not together obviously – and a pint) and we finish off with another couple of pints watching football in the bar before retiring for a well-earned sleep.

No comments:

Post a Comment