With three challenges completed – Cleveland Way (2002-2005), Hadrian’s Wall Path (2012-13), and Lower Teesdale Way (2013-14) - the Ancient Roam turns its attention to St Cuthbert’s Way

This will be attempted, possibly haphazardly, in the company of the more mobile remnants of the Lloyd George House class of ’75. Forty years on from sharing student accommodation of that name, six retired but game gentlemen aim to periodically reconvene and meander across the Scottish Borders and the Cheviot with the faint hope of reaching the Northumberland Coast in the next year or two.



Tuesday, 2 October 2012

Leg II – Carlisle to Walton – Wednesday 19 September 2012


Two trains take us North and West through sunny countryside to Carlisle station and at about 11.30 we begin the eastward march to the North Sea. The plan is to take the next three days to get to Housesteads Fort and to return in the spring for another three days to complete the journey.
A short walk through town brings us again to Bitts Park where this time we turn right instead of left. In this direction is parkland; first Bitts park, then along the edge of a golf course, before crossing the Eden by the Memorial Bridge into Rickerby Park. Puddles remain from recent heavy rains but the sky today is visibly blue and the sun emerges from time to time from behind white clouds.
Exiting the park we join a minor road, passing some rather grand houses and lodges at Rickerby itself, before crossing the M6 at Linstock Bridge. We pause to contrast our pace with the racing traffic below; in the hour we have taken to get here from Carlisle some of these cars have travelled from Glasgow or Manchester.
At the village of Linstock we leave the road and take the riverside path indicated a little too literally and disappear into tall reeds and giant rhubarb. Sensibly we retrace some steps and emerge into more negotiable field paths, from where we are better placed to enjoy the fine views along the river.
After 2 hours and 4 miles we arrive at Low Crosby and the Stag Inn. Although a little early in the walk it is the last recognisable watering hole of the day so it is only prudent to take advantage. Stone floors and hobbit sized doorways lead to a pleasant bar and two deep comfy leather armchairs. Tea and homemade cake are ordered; the cake needs not only a fork but also scaffolding to tackle properly, and two cups of tea to wash down, but the copious teapot is up to the job. Great value at £4 a head.
Eventually, almost reluctantly, we lever ourselves out of the chairs and set off along the road east before turning north along a sunken grassy track that leads to the Military Road and a final turn back east. The road becomes a lane then a raised field path alongside Blea Tarn, and the first discernible lumps and bumps that represent the wall, ditches & vallum come into view.
This very pleasant 4 mile section ends as we are spat out over a stile into Newtown, where a planned tea time rest stop on the village green is cancelled by a sudden heavy shower that requires a hurried unpacking and deployment of waterproof coats. However by the time we have declined from Newtown into adjacent farmland the rain has passed and we can take some refreshment sat in the sunshine on the roots of an old tree.
The next two miles to Walton are more farmland than Roman Wall, but we get back on theme on arrival at the Centurion Inn, unfortunately closed down, at Walton. Here we avail ourselves of the ubiquitous village green bench and phone for a taxi to take us the three miles to Brampton and the Howard Arms. Waiting we reflect with some satisfaction on the first of our three day jaunt – 11 miles in about 5½ hours carrying our 3-day packs for the first time. But the terrain has been fairly flat and there will be more challenging days to come.
At the Howard Arms, bang in the centre of Brampton, the first pint has to be the Wainwright, a blond and rather bland, but refreshing, ale. With our steaks later we switch to the Bomber which has more flavour and body. Pleasantly rested, watered and fed we retire to our room and fire up the vintage TV. When the weather forecast comes on we rather wish we hadn’t. Wall to wall rain is on its way tomorrow.

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