St Cuthbert’s Way - Leg II: Harestanes to Morebattle – Friday 9 October 2015

Starting where we left off yesterday at Harestanes Visitors Centre we retrace our steps through the local paths to regain St Cuthbert’s Way, soon dropping down to the banks of River Teviot. Turning to the right for a few hundred yards we reach and cross the picturesque Monteviot suspension footbridge, turning left again to return down the opposite bank. Midstream are two pairs of swans, serenely stationary in the current but presumably paddling like billy-oh underneath. The weather is not as bright as yesterday but it is still a fine day for walking.

Soon the Teviot’s junction with the Jedwater Stream is reached, with the route following the smaller tributary upstream to steps that lead up to the A698 at the Jedfoot Bridge. Over the main road the way continues along a track and soon we are rising up another section of Dere Street, straight and steepish. Just before the top of the hill the way goes left into trees following a delightful path, gently downwards with impressive views across fields to the Waterloo Monument in the distance.

Emerging from the wood the way turns right along a minor road climbing up, then steeply down, to a footbridge over Oxnam Water. Beyond here is the main climb of the day; first diagonally up a field then, having levelled off, kicking steeply up a straight tarmacked track. At the top of the track (attained some time later) the path leads left into another wood, revealing a good place to stop for lunch.

We pick a tree each, to sit with our backs against, and munch in quiet contemplation, recovering from the not inconsiderable exertion of the ascent.

Resuming, the wood is soon exited and we follow a road to the right before heading across the fields from Brownrigg Farm. Wending our way between fields and trees we rise up onto Cessford Moor, after a mile or two dropping down into Cessford itself, comprising a few estate cottages, a red phone box, a small ruin, and a grass verge. We sit gratefully on the verge and snack.

The final stretch is along the minor road, past the ruined ‘castle’, up then down, reaching after a mile or so the relatively main B6401 road. A right turn and another half mile of road walking brings us into Morebattle, up the main street, then downhill to our base at the Templehall Inn.

No issues with closing time today – tea readily available to enjoy before a delegation sets off to retrieve the car left at Harestanes several hours ago. On their return, after a sprucing up, it was time for another fine meal and an evening of self-congratulation on the two days’ efforts, with an evident determination to carry on next autumn.

St Cuthbert’s Way - Leg I: Newtown St Boswells to Harestanes

Leaving one car at the Harestanes Visitors Centre we then motored to Newtown St Boswells, using the car park adjacent to the Co-op as our departure point. Respecting our maturity and various dodgy body parts the official start point of Melrose Abbey and the stiff climb up and over the Eildon Hills had been deemed unwise, and so omitted.

Having got the boots on and flexed the joints we exited the car park, turned left and then left again following a helpful sign pointing down through the trees towards the river. At the river, just to the left, an impressive footbridge provided an early stopping point to chat with a local, but the route turned to the right staying on the near bank. Warm, still and sunny it was a perfect October day for a walk, and the turning leaves on the trees gave some lovely views along and across the Tweed.

After couple of miles the route diverted up the bank and into St Boswells, along the main street for a few hundred yards (shops available for the already peckish) before turning left at Braeheads Road (unsigned) down to the golf course. At the course the path leads right, along the edge of a couple of fairways before regaining the river bank (where herons flew) and following a long right hand curve to within sight of the Mertoun Bridge.

Here we stopped for lunch; with the river level low we were able to sit on the concrete weir, well into the flow, and enjoy our packed lunches and idyllic view while our legs stiffened up.

After lunch we rose with a chorus of old man groans and continued along the river bank for a while until we reached steep steps leading up to the imposing Maxton Church. Here a bench cried out for a group selfie, so we obliged. Beyond the church and the few houses that make up Maxton the well signed route led left onto a minor road heading towards the busy A68.

Just before reaching the main road the way is signed left into woods on a track that gradually diverges from the road, following the line of the Roman Dere Street. The gradient is slight but unremittingly upwards, and when eventually we reached a sign for Lilliard’s Stone our curiosity and fatigue combined to persuade us to stop a while. A climb over a stile was well worthwhile to see the stone monument, read the inscription (and put it to music), take in the impressive views to all sides, and top up with remaining refreshments.

Returning over the stile to Dere Street, the way was now generally downwards, weaving among trees, before rising again to cross a minor road and enter some woodland opposite. The well-signed route continues to weave through the trees, but just after crossing the B6400 we abandoned the St Cuthbert’s way route in favour of the signs to the Harestanes Visitors Centre.

It is a good half mile before that goal is reached, and a spurt was needed to get there before the centre (and more importantly the café) was due to close at 5 pm. We made it with just ten minutes to spare and the excellent staff, disregarding the proximity of closure, made us welcome and served up tea and cakes to consume while they locked up around us until we were ready to go at about quarter past five.

We piled into the car left earlier, drove back to Newtown St Boswells to pick up the one left there, then drove in convoy to our digs at The Templehall Inn in Morebattle, where after dusting off and performing necessary ablutions we enjoyed a fine meal and well deserved drinks.